By Howard Kim, Co-Editor-in-Chief
On a Friday night around 5:30 p.m., I strolled into Bartaco at the King of Prussia mall, where I discovered a casual atmosphere and rustic interior perfect for having a good time. While Bartaco does not accept reservations, I recommend customers beat the evening dinner rush or utilize the website’s waitlist to ensure timely seating.
Unlike typical restaurants, customers order on the Bartaco website by scanning a QR code on the table, with the only aspects of service being when food and drinks are brought from the kitchen and dishes are cleared.
Bartaco’s menu displayed a wide variety of options full of culinary fusion, blending elements of Asian and Middle Eastern cuisine with Latin American foods. I started off with the sesame ribeye taco, which set the tone for the rest of the meal. The marinated ribeye with the sweet sesame-soy glaze complimented the taco’s distinct kimchi well.
Next, I opted for the chile-lime shrimp taco, which had some kick to it. From the spice of the chili peppers in the salsa macha to the sourness of the jicama escabeche, or pickled Mexican turnips, this dish was a welcome shock to my palate.
I followed this up with the glazed pork belly taco, and it was perfection, just as I had hoped. Topped off with a spicy chile de arbol salsa, this dish balanced the heat with the sweetness of the melt-in-your-mouth candied braised pork belly cubes. My last taco, the roasted duck taco, was a bit too oily, and its seasoning was underwhelming. Its tamarind glaze and caramelized onions were a nice touch, but not quite enough to balance out the rest.
In between bites, I sipped on the grapefruit ginger agua fresca. Although the grapefruit and ginger combination gave it a nice, refreshing zing, the distinct, citrusy tartness was a bit overpowering for my liking.
After the tacos, I branched out and tried the tuna poke and plantains to see how Bartaco would deliver on less fusion-y dishes. The tuna poke contained the typical tuna, vegetables and poke dressing and also came with three tostada shells to pair with the poke, adding a nice crunchy texture to the umami of the poke itself. The plantains were fried just enough that the edges were crispy and the insides were warm and soft. They served it with a delicious sauce with hints of citrus and cilantro.
At Bartaco, individual tacos and drinks cost around $4 while other dishes are typically higher. For people interested in trying some fusion and enjoying a vibrant atmosphere, Bartaco is the perfect restaurant.
Howard Kim can be reached at [email protected].
